All barrelling is done on an English Colchester lathe. The lathe was refurbished back to factory specification four years ago and is serviced twice a year, both mechanically , and electrically and is maintained on a regular schedule.
I only use Pacific Tool and Gauge reamers, and only the live pilot versions. This entails a tight fitting pilot fitted exactly, to the barrel bore, for the reamer to revolve in. This ensures no scoring, perfect alignment, and through flush of cutting oils, provided by the lathe's onboard coolant system. All barrels are reamed with a constant supply of cutting oil being pumped through the muzzle end of the barrel, and over the reamer, as it cuts. This ensures no chips can go over the reamer as it cuts, and leaves a perfect, scratch free chamber. The pilots, in conjunction with the floating reamer holder, also ensure the chamber is perfectly concentric to the bore.
All barrels are chambered by myself. I DO NOT fit pre-chambered barrels, nor do I re-chamber existing chambers....neither are satisfactory in a custom rifle.
I cut muzzle threads in UNF, UNEF, and metric thread forms.
All threads are cut concentric to the bore, after indicating bore in to "0".
All threads are cut to specification, and then measured with a certified thread ring gauge, in ALL thread forms. Ring gauges are expensive items, but are the only way to guarantee that a muzzle thread is EXACTLY to specification. I cut all muzzle threads this way, and do not cut threads to fit a particular silencer or brake that does not have a "to spec " thread.
Thread caps can be made and fitted at the same time, from a very basic knurled one , to an invisble one, which looks like part of the barrel.